Restaurants

Mazi

In our review of Aphrodite Taverna, we mentioned the continued success of the Cypriot scene. So prevalent that most people simply consider it Greek food, that simple collection of roasted meats and salted cheese has long dominated English shores. Mazi does something entirely different, and for that we’re glad. We love the traditional fare, but invention is a wonderful thing. Just look at how English food has been regenerated by the bright young minds of the latest generation: it’s nothing short of a renaissance.

 Mazi should be all of that, and more. Succulent lamb, fresh tomatoes still on the vine, beautiful little pastries with honey and cinnamon. All of these things are crying out for a modern reinvention, a little creative spark to remind us of their brilliance. They don’t get it here. Instead, they get the nouveau cuisine treatment, but in a very lacking way. Deconstructing my dishes and putting them into Kilner jars does not make me think about their flavours. Whilst we’re on the subject, stop serving me food in glass jars. It’s needless and annoying. I do not want to struggling to extract salad leaves from a storage unit. That’s why bowls have an incredible wide mouth!

Sometimes, the flavours live up to the hype and the creativity is actually there. The problem then, is how small dishes are. It’s meant to be a full on Greek experience with lots of little plates. A tapas style dinner, which is great when there’s a hundred dishes that you want a bite of. When only 20% of the menu is worth the incredible prices though, it’s grating.

Address : 14 Hillgate Street, London W8 7SR

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